Use the Blade Eraser for heavy tarnish and finish up with polish for a finish polish. I used these for years to clean and touch up old rusty knives that I found in Gun Shows, Flea Markets, and Garage Sales. If you look for old knives, these will clean a rusty old tang stamp very quickly for field identification in a flea market or garage sale. Be aware that lubricants and oil will clog the surface of these erasers quickly be sure to degrease the surface of your knife before using. This will expose fresh abrasive, giving a quick clean cut. As the Blade Eraser clogs up, take a razor blade and cut just a small sliver off the surface. I will use this long taper to clean up knife blades where the tang stamps and pattern numbers are close to the bolsters. I will usually cut these at a hard diagonal, giving me two erasers with one long taper each. These erasers will take light to heavy rust off older blades or tune up a brass bolster that has grown deep green tarnish. Use when polish alone isn't quite abrasive enough. The Blade Eraser measures 3 1/8" by 1" by 5/8".Įditor's note: A Blade Eraser is basically a rubber eraser combined with a mild abrasive. You may need to do a couple of etching and polishing cycles to really get some nice detail.The Blade Eraser is designed to erase rust, tarnish and other surface blemishes on metal producing a fine, brushed satin finish. With hundreds of knives in our database and expert tips, tricks and resources, you can hone your craft, whatever your goal might be. Join our passionate community of knife sharpeners. You can etch with other acids but coffee will give you the deepest black. FIBROUS ERASER BLOCK Cleans Ceramic & Porcelain Surfaces Especially Effective for the Cleaning of Ceramic. You can polish with powder at this point if you want more definition in your transitionĬlean the knife super thoroughly and etch in strong instant coffee (Google coffee etch) until the nice rich black surface is achieved on the kireha. Do your last grit sanding lengthwise again first scrubbing then lastly single full length pulls to remove all the j hooks. Go to 600 or 800 and repeat but over the whole blade, sanding at 45 degrees in the other direction (so 90 degrees to current marks) ![]() Be patient and don't move up a grit until scratches are completely gone. (examine carefully under bright light to make sure scratches all run at 45 degrees. Sand at 45 degrees to the existing scratches until they are all gone. Starting at 400-600 grit sand the effected areas and surrounds. I like piece of timber with some leather glued to it for a tiny bit of give. Fresh tape every time you work.Ĭlamp it to an old pice of timber and go to town with sandpaper. If you stop for any period of time remove this tape and clean residue. Also be fairly careful not to cut yourself and don't spend much time on the tip or you will round it offįirst of, if you can get the handle off without wrecking it do so, will finish cleaner at the machi.Ĭover the other side with some good quality clean masking tape. If you are nervous about doing it on such a high value knife, try refurbing an older one first to get the hang of it. Totally doable with a few hours of elbow grease. ![]() Avoid going back and forth-this creates "fish hooks" (J-shaped sanding scratches). Sand in full swipes over the length of the blade. clamp the knife by the handle to a work surface. Just stop at a grit where you think it looks nice. If you found that, say, 400 was a good starting point, then 400-60-1500-2000. Once you can't tell new scratches from old, that's what you want.) Stop at the grit where you can't distinguish that grit from the old scratches. This is to help you find the best low grit without starting with too aggressive a grit. start with higher grits wet/dry and work to lower grits. This opens a whole new can of worms because it'll change what the cladding line looks like Be very careful not to involve the cladding line. In my way of thinking about this one, you're just trying to blend out the scratches and not do a full refinish. ![]() The finish will never look as-new no matter what method you use, but you should be able to get a decent finish on there fairly easily. I'd just go #1, carefully, since the issue doesn't go past the cladding line. Sandpaper + micromesh + stone powder + acid etch
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